Ballet bodice 101

There are probably one hundred different ways to build a tutu bodice, and everyone has their own preference for how things are done. I know, though, that when I was first starting I had a HORRIBLE time finding any kind of information. I guess you could say I learned through "osmosis." Which is a nice way of saying that I spent a year burried in ballet costumes, looked at them, and guessed.

In hopes of saving someone else the time, here's what I learned. :) *note: This tutorial assumes that you do have some idea of how a ballet bodice should fit...snug snug snug.


Step 1: Fabric and Lining
Cut all of your pieces from both your outer (pretty) fabric and your lining. Pay special attention to the grainline on each pattern piece. Your sides should be cut on the bias. This allows the bodice to expand and contract with the dancer's rib cage. (I tease the girls about it, but oxygen is NOT, in fact, optional.)

The lining fabric I see recommended from most sources is coutil. If you're cheap (like me) or on a small studio budget (like me) a soft cotton twill makes a nice stand in for the spendier coutil.

Step 2. Lining.
When you have all of your pieces cut, match each outer piece with it's lining and serge around all edges, attaching the lining to the outer and making it one solid unit.

Step 3. Assembly.

Once you've attached all lining pieces, sew the bodice units together in order using a 5/8" seam or so. This is just a starting point.

By the end of step 3, you should have something that resembles this:

This is generally where I do an initial fitting on the dancer and make any adjustments to the fit.



Step 4. Adding Boning Channels

There are a lot of ways to insert boning. I prefer a casing hidden in the seam. It's flat, simple, and doesn't show from the outside. I bone every seam except for the two side seams.

Lay the seam, unopened, with right sides together. Fold back one half of the seam allowance, leaving the other flat on your sewing surface.

Lay a piece of narrow, single fold bias tape on top of the seam. Raw edges should be down, and the seam should be centered along the tape. Top stitch the bias tape to only the seam allowance.

Now flip your seam over and repeat the process, sewing the other side of the bias tape to the other side of the seam allowance.

Step 5. Piping the bottom.

This is optional, but it gives a beautiful finish to the bottom of the bodice and helps keep the rounded edge from stretching. You can use a ready made piping, or cover your own to match the fabric.

Lining up all of the raw edges, place your piping on top of your bodice along the bottom edge. Using single fold bias tape, open one side and place the tape on top of the piping so that the crease is snug against the piping edge and the raw edges are lined up. Stitch along the crease, attaching the piping and tape to the bottom of the bodice. (If this feels fussy, you can do this in two steps. Apply the piping first and then go back and apply the bias tape.)

You should now have something similar to this:

Step 6: Insert Boning

There are several types of boning. I'll cover them in a seperate post, but for this tutorial I'm using a mid-heavy weight poly boning.

Cut your boning pieces one inch shorter than your channel. This allows for the finishing seams on either end.

The boning should simply slide into the channel, and now you can apply piping and bias tape to the top edge of your bodice as well. (Your boning is now "trapped" in it's casing.)

Step 7: Finish up! :)

To finish the top and bottom edges, simply fold the bias tape towards the inside of the bodice and slip stitch in place. Be careful to only stitch the tape to the lining of your bodice (it takes a little practice).

Doesn't that look pretty?

TADA! Now you just have to stitch on your elastic straps, and your hook and eye closures.

This bodice is a future Sugar Plum Fairy.

And just for giggles....here's an itty bitty little Sugar Plum Doll (A child's size 4. So tiny!) made to match, from possibly the most adorable commercial pattern ever produced.

AWwwwwww!